Archive for the ‘Local’ Category

War and Leeks

Monday, February 15th, 2010

I knew it was bound to happen. Well, truthfully, I had hoped it wouldn’t… But, alas, I am human and, hence, imperfect. Today was a kitchen disaster. Some may say I’m being overly dramatic. And there was nobody else around to witness this tragedy aside from my trusty sous-chef Fargo, the yellow lab. But I just finished cooking what I hoped would be a luxurious, rustic potato leek soup. What is now sitting in a pot on my stove more closely resembles wallpaper paste.  Or what I would imagine it looks like. I am, as you can imagine, less than pleased.

The day started out fine. Off to the farmer’s market in search of leeks – those rods of oniony goodness resembling overgrown scallions. I love their striations of color – it seems like every shade of green is featured throughout the stalk. And they have so very many applications. Braised leeks. Creamy oven-roasted leeks. Crispy fried leeks perched on top seared scallops or nestled over a bubbling gratin. My mouth was watering.

Alas, I wanted to be a bit more virtuous. A little healthier. So I searched for a nutritious potato leek soup recipe. So many were laden with butter and heavy cream. And too, I was concerned about presenting a starch-fest for a meal. So I figured I would “improvise.” I almost always tweak recipes and, for the most part, they work out quite well. Not so this time.

I took a perfectly good recipe for this soup and it went to hell in a … stock pot.  I tried substituting buttermilk for heavy cream. And, feeling bold, I even tossed in some pureed cannellini beans, thinking I’d bump up the protein quotient. Both poor choices.

The lesson I learned is this – not all recipes are meant to be “healthified.” There are likely a number of perfectly good potato leek soup recipes that are more nutritious than the traditional vichyssoise (AKA potato leek soup served hot) recipe I found in the Joy of Cooking. But in retrospect I ask myself this. Can’t we all stand a bit of indulgence, a touch of luxury from time to time? What’s wrong a creamy, leek-infused bowl of steaming soup to dive into from time to time?

After freezing the first batch (I just couldn’t let it go to waste and it was, in truth, not THAT bad – it’s just not something I can, in good conscience, recommend), I searched for another recipe that would satisfy my desire for healthy leek soup. Then I recalled a leek and mushroom soup mom used to make with leeks pulled directly from her garden. I dug through old cookbooks and files and finally unearthed my ragged, spiral-bound recipe “book” – the one I brought to Washington, D.C. when I headed east after college. The one with my favorite, “tried and true” recipes. The one featuring mom’s beloved recipe for leek and mushroom soup. 

Off to the store (the farmer’s market had long since closed) for more leeks and a bag full of mushrooms. Pot cleaned. Ditto the leeks. Vegetables chopped. Soup simmered. One hour later – delicious, satisfying, rich-but-not-too-rich leek soup. Some day soon I will indulge without guilt in a bowl of the Joy of Cooking version.  But for now – contentment.

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Leek & Mushroom Soup

 Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons butter or olive oil
  • 2 large leeks
  • 3 cups chopped mushrooms (Cremini or button – or any kind you like)
  • 1/2 yellow onion
  • 2 stalks celery
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 32 ounces vegetable or chicken stock
  • 4 tablespoons flour
  • 1/3 cup sherry
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Instructions

Thoroughly wash the leeks. Dirt and grit loves to hide amongst the layers of the leeks and needs to be gently coaxed out with water. Try cutting the leeks lengthwise down to ½ inch above the root and running water down toward the dark green part. Or chop all your leeks and soak in a large bowl of water, allowing the dirt and grit to drift to the bottom of the bowl. Then place in strainer and rinse again.

Thinly slice leeks into half-moons. Finely chop onions and celery. Thinly slice mushrooms.

In a stock pot, heat oil or butter over medium. Add all vegetables and sauté until tender – about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with flour and stir well to coat all the vegetables. Season with salt and pepper (about ½ teaspoon of each). Stir well. Add stock and sprigs of thyme. Simmer on low for 15 minutes. Add sherry and simmer another 5 minutes. Remove sprigs of thyme.

Season to taste. You can add some wild rice to make this more substantial.

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Final lesson of the day. Don’t let one kitchen nightmare deter you from exploring other avenues. There is always a solution. More importantly, if you are patient (a skill I am trying to develop), there is almost always a tasty reward.

Beet It

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Despite the jewel tones in the picture above, beets do not look like this upon being pulled from the soil. I think Mother Nature has a twisted sense of humor. Who else would produce a dark, ruddy tuber with alien-like tentacles (AKA roots) that most people, upon discovery, would leave in the ground rather than yank into the sunlight? Yet it takes only one slice with a sharp knife to unveil the splendor … shadowy crimson or vivid yellow the color of a school bus or the spectacularly vibrant concentric circles of fuchsia and white featured in the more elusive Chioggia, (currently available at local farmers markets). I just love them.

This wasn’t always the case. As has been a popular theme of late in my blog posts…I only recently came to enjoy vegetables like beets. In years past, I associated these vegetables with the soft, floppy, artificial-looking slices swimming in burgundy-tinted liquid in a salad bar. Or the canned monstrosities that I used to eat on this crazy diet I followed on and off for years. They were a mandatory ingredient in said diet and I recall opening the can, standing over the sink and gagging them down – all the while trying not to breathe or inhale so I wouldn’t have to taste them.

It took one bite of a properly roasted beet propped atop a bed of crisp greens with a smattering of goat cheese to change my mind. Prepared correctly, beets offer a sweet, earthy taste with a buttery texture that can be heightened with a little carmelization in the oven.

And beets are almost always mentioned on the “healthiest” food lists. Though high in sugar (according to Wikipedia, beet sugar accounts for 30% of the world’s sugar production) beets are very low in calories.  They also protect against heart disease and many cancers as well as increase antioxidants in the liver and help lower cholesterol levels.  

A few words of caution before you head into the kitchen – I would advise against wearing white.  If you’re working with the traditional dark red beets, a few slices and your kitchen may start to resemble a murder scene on steroids – electric magenta streaking the knife as the garish juice seeps into the cutting board. An easy fix – choose golden beets. They are just as sweet and tender as their flamboyant counterparts. If you decide to go with the red variety and the juice leaches into your hands – try rubbing in some lemon juice. And if it bleeds into a cutting board, a bit of water, a sprinkle of coarse salt and a little elbow grease will do away with most persisting magenta splotches. 

Please don’t let these minor culinary hurdles sway you from enjoying beets. The three following recipes show off the versatility of this delightfully nutritious and delicious vegetable. I hope you’ll try them.

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Oven-Baked Beet Chips

I love Terra Chips – those root vegetables sliced thin and fried to crispy perfection. And the bright red beet chips are among my favorites. So I thought I’d try a homemade baked version – and they actually turned out to be satisfyingly crisp and savory.

Ingredients:

  • 2 large red beets (or any variety will do)
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil.

Peel the beets and cut as thinly as possible – trying for a uniform thickness. Toss in a bowl with olive oil and salt. Spread on baking sheet in a single layer.

Bake in oven 20 minutes. Turn all slices over and continue to bake another 20-25 minutes. Watch closely toward the end as the high sugar content makes these chips burn rather rapidly. Sprinkle with additional salt and serve immediately.

 

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Roasted Beet Salad with Walnuts & Goat Cheese

This salad can be made with any variety of lettuce, roasted nuts and cheese you prefer.

Ingredients:

  • 4 medium beets (I like to use a variety of colors)
  • 1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1 medium lemon
  • 1 small clove of garlic or 1 teaspoon minced shallots
  • 1 bunch frisée lettuce
  • Goat, feta or blue cheese (approximately 2 ounces)
  • 1/2 cup walnuts
  • Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Peel the beets and cut into 1/4 – 1/2 inch pieces. In a large bowl, toss together the beets, 2 tablespoons oil, 1/2 tablespoon vinegar, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Arrange beets in a single layer on baking sheet and cover with foil. Bake for 20 minutes, then uncover and bake until tender, about 20 -30 minutes more. Set aside and let cool.

Drop oven temperature to 200 degrees. Place the walnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. Allow to cool before serving.

Whisk together remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil with juice and zest of the lemon and minced garlic or shallots (I prefer shallots as garlic can overwhelm the beets). Season with salt & pepper. Toss in beets and mix to coat. Place lettuce onto four plates and top with a quarter of the beets. Top with crumbled cheese (goat is my preference as blue can also overwhelm the beets) and roasted walnuts.

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 Grilled Beet, Kale & Leek Quesadillas

If you’re fortunate enough to live in the Seattle area and have visited the Ballard Farmer’s Market – you have likely (hopefully) stumbled up on Patty Pan. Devra and her team cook up the most incredible veggie quesadillas every Sunday – handing them out to waiting crowds who scurry away to find a place to squat with these steaming wedges of grilled vegetables and melting cheese. She was kind enough to share some tips on how to reproduce them – and I think I’ve come up with a decent semblance. As Devra points out, they are best enjoyed outside in the crisp Seattle air amongst bustling crowds of fellow farmer’s market shoppers. That said, this recipe should do in a pinch if you’re not able to get to the market.

Note that I have included three different vegetables but you can add any variety you wish. Carrots, onions, broccoli, zucchini, etc. – all make wonderful additions. This recipe is approximate – I usually just toss in veggies and spices and cook until everything is nicely grilled. The amounts below should make three quesadillas. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

  • 2 beets (any variety will do)
  • 1 bunch kale
  • 2 leeks (or ½ an onion if leeks aren’t handy)
  • 1 teaspoon garlic salt
  • 2 teaspoons chili powder
  • 2 teaspoons cumin
  • 6 whole wheat tortillas
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 ounces Jack cheese – grated
  • Salsa and/or hot sauce

Instructions:

Peel beets and thinly slice. Wash kale and discard stems and ribs – tear or slice into 2-inch pieces. Wash leeks and slice into thin strips.

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil until almost smoking. Add the beets and sauté for about 3 minutes – turning after a minute or two. Once they start to soften, reduce the heat to medium high and add the leeks. Continue sautéing another 3 minutes. Sprinkle liberally with garlic salt, chili powder and cumin. Add the kale. Continue sautéing until vegetables are cooked through and kale is wilted.

In a separate pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Place 1/3 of the cheese in the center of one tortilla and place in pan. Warm until cheese begins to melt. Place a generous amount of the grilled vegetables over the cheese and top with a second tortilla. Spray the top tortilla with olive oil cooking spray and flip over. Continue to cook until the quesadilla is crisp and brown. Remove from pan, cut into wedges and serve with your favorite salsa.

If you like a bit of heat, add your favorite hot sauce or chili peppers before placing the second tortilla on top.

An Apple a Day

Monday, February 8th, 2010

The other day I was talking with a friend, trying to come up with easy recommendations for increasing his daily intake of fruits and vegetables. Like many, if not most, people, he is challenged to meet the recommended daily allowances of fruits and vegetables (essentially 4 ½ cups of fruits and vegetables a day for the average adult). So I thought I’d start with an easy one, especially considering the season. “Why not add an apple a day to your diet?” I asked. His response stunned me: “I don’t like apples.” I was speechless. What? Really? Who doesn’t like apples? So I talked with him about the plethora of delicious varieties available today and he agreed that he would try some new ones.  A few weeks later, I was telling this story to another friend and she responded, “Yeah, I get that. I didn’t like apples until a year or two ago.” This friend made me realize that, to many, an apple meant one of those red, somewhat mealy fruits that we used to eat in our youth. The ones that, when sliced, the skin would bleed into the white flesh of the apple. The ones with little to no taste. The ones I didn’t like.

I have been taking our amazing array of Washington-grown apples for granted. I didn’t realize that many people might not be aware of the tangy crunch of the Honey Crisp or the tart yet sweet bite of the Braeburn. And I myself get confused and overwhelmed by the incredible selection of apples piled high at farmer’s markets and grocery stores. So I can understand that people might just go with what they know – which might be standard “Delicious” variety. And I really don’t want to disparage this brand as it might do the trick for many. I’m only hoping to expand the horizons of those looking for more flavor, more crunch. Just more.

Considering I rarely remember which apples are best for what purpose, I wanted to feature a few links that summarize which are most appropriate for baking, canning and just plain eating. The Washington Apple Commission has a great usage chart that summarizes some of the most popular varieties. Tiny’s Organics, one of my favorite apple vendors at the Ballard Farmer’s Market, features detailed information on their apples including when they are harvested and available. The friendly guy at Tiny’s stand even told me the other day that they are working on a new variety called the Jolly Rancher that will taste of watermelon. Just imagine!

The “apple a day keeps the doctor away” adage isn’t just an old proverb. Apples are packed with fiber and phytonutrients that have been found in studies to lower blood cholesterol and may be associated with a reduced risk of heart disease, stroke, type II diabetes and some cancers. And they can be easily added to a daily diet. Because apples are so readily available during the winter, I find myself substituting them in salads for tomatoes and peppers which are not grown locally this time of the year. And a favorite snack is a Braeburn sliced and paired with locally made Marilyn’s Nut Butter – the “Pistachio with Fennel” variety is blissfully savory concoction that only serves to heighten the sweetness of the fruit. With apples, there exists an indefinite array of tastes and textures and applications and I’ve included a few of my favorites below.

Finally, I am happy to report that my friend with the apple aversion is today a new man. He is happily eating an apple a day. Hurray!

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Fresh Apple Cake

Growing up, we were lucky enough to have an apple tree in our front yard. Mom would make this cake throughout the harvest. I remember sneaking into the drawer were it was kept, protected by tin foil, and trying to carve out a hunk without anyone being the wiser. More recently, dad has become quite the baker and whips this one up for birthdays and family celebrations. I’ve substituted some whole wheat flour for some of the all purpose flour. Which makes me feel a bit better when I slather the cake with Butter Rum Sauce. I’m including the recipe for this sinfully decadent delight after the cake recipe. And please know that the apple cake is definitely tasty enough to stand on its own. However from time to time, a girl’s gotta indulge.

Ingredients

  • 6 cups apples (approximately 5 large apples – I like Braeburn)
  • 2 eggs
  • ½ cup brown sugar
  • ½ cup white sugar
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla
  • 1/3 cup canola oil
  • 1 ½ cups all purpose flour
  • 1 cup whole wheat flour
  • 2 ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½  teaspoon salt
  • 2 ½ teaspoons cinnamon
  • 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
  • 1 tablespoon cinnamon mixed with 1 tablespoon white sugar

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare apples by peeling, coring and chopping in a ¼ inch dice. In a large bowl combine eggs, sugars, vanilla and oil.  Fold in apples.

In a separate bowl, mix together the dry ingredients.  Mix into apple mixture.  Fold in the walnuts.  The batter will be very thick.

Pour into a lightly oiled and floured 9×13″ baking pan.  Pat out evenly.  Mix cinnamon and sugar together and sprinkle over the top.  Bake for 40-45 minutes or until nicely browned and a toothpick can be inserted and come out clean.  Serve alone or with Butter Rum Sauce (recipe below) and ice cream of a decadent treat.

Note – this cake freezes exceptionally well.

 

Butter Rum Sauce   

Ingredients

  • ¾ cup brown sugar
  • ½ cup butter
  • ¼ cup cream
  • 2 tablespoon rum or 1 teaspoon vanilla

Instructions

Bring butter and brown sugar to a low boil.  Mix in cream and rum or vanilla and remove from heat.  Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator and reheat in microwave before serving.

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Baked Apples with Cherries & Almonds

The following is loosely based on a recipe I found from the Mayo Clinic – which means it is packed full of healthy ingredients. Use a good baking apple like a Granny Smith or Jonagold. It’s a delicious light dessert or can be paired nicely alongside roasted pork.

Ingredients

  • 1/3 cup dried cherries, coarsely chopped
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped almonds
  • 1 tablespoon wheat germ
  • 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 6 small apples
  • 1/2 cup apple juice
  • 2 tablespoons honey

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a small bowl, toss together the cherries, almonds, wheat germ, brown sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg until all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Set aside.

The apples can be peeled or left unpeeled. I find that leaving the peel on helps maintain the shape. Working from the stem end, core each apple, stopping about 3/4 inch from the bottom. Check to ensure all seeds have been removed.

Divide the cherry mixture evenly among the apples, pressing the mixture gently into each cavity. Arrange the apples upright in a heavy ovenproof frying pan or small baking dish just large enough to hold them. Pour the apple juice and water into the pan. Drizzle the honey evenly over the apples and cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Bake until the apples are tender when pierced with a knife, approximately 50 minutes.

Transfer the apples to individual plates and drizzle with the pan juices. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cabbage: Hungarian Traditions & New Adventures

Thursday, January 28th, 2010

Cabbage is ruling the Farmer’s Markets these days – so it seemed high time to whip up some favorite recipes with this “super vegetable.” Loaded with vitamins and fiber, cruciferous veggies like cabbage might even lower your risk of getting cancer. So I need to eat more of it.

 When I think of cabbage, three recipes come to mind. The first is from youth and was, at the time, considered an exotic adventure in Asian dining. It involved pale, plain, shredded green cabbage tossed with crisped Top Ramen noodles. The dressing used to top this oh-so-elegant dish consisted of the “flavor packet” contained in the “Oriental” version of this culinary evil-doer along with too much vegetable oil, white sugar and soy sauce. Truth be told, I used to adore this dish. Alas, not the healthiest cabbage recipe in the world.  

 The other two recipes – one for pork & rice-stuffed cabbage with sauerkraut and the other for braised red cabbage served alongside our family’s traditional Christmas Eve pork roast – remind me of my mother. So I’ll stick with these memories…

 A bit about my mother. She was born in Hungary where my grandparents operated a pharmacy.  After their home was bombed in 1944 the family fled to Bavaria to escape the Soviet occupation.  Mom attended a German school for a year and then a Hungarian girl’s school until 1951 when the family emigrated in a US troopship to America.  They finally settled in San Francisco and mom met my dad when they both were studying chemistry at UC Berkeley – near the home where I was raised.

 So I grew up eating a wide variety of Hungarian “delicacies.” I recall I didn’t exactly salivate over mom’s stuffed cabbage or braised red cabbage. In my youth I leaned toward whatever my friends were eating – Nacho Cheese Doritos and hot dogs. Definitely not Hungarian food. That just wasn’t very cool.  

I have since reformed. Mom taught me, with great patience, how to perfect the steaming rolls of pork and rice wrapped with cabbage, nestled in savory, dill-infused sauerkraut and topped with a generous dollop of rich sour cream. Until I stopped eating meat a year and a half ago, stuffed cabbage was a favorite winter dish. Heavenly.

Sadly mom passed away in 2008. I would give anything for another day in the kitchen with her or a shared meal at the dinner table. However, I think she would have been pleased that I am carrying on our Christmas Eve tradition and was able to whip up a respectable version of her braised red cabbage this past December 24th. It was like she was standing next to me, helping me adjust the caraway seeds, vinegar and brown sugar. And I have made stuffed cabbage for dad to have on hand in the freezer for a quick, hearty dinner when the nights turn cold. It is when I am cooking these meals that I am closest to my mother. So I am forever grateful that she shared these traditions with me and took the time to ensure I mastered a number of influential Hungarian recipes.

Hungarian Braised Red Cabbage

Ingredients

  • One small yellow onion (about ½ cup chopped)
  • One head red cabbage
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed
  • 3 tablespoons white vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
  • Salt & pepper to taste

 Instructions

Chop the onion (small-medium chop) and sauté in olive oil over medium low heat until soft – approximately 5 minutes.

Remove core from cabbage and cut into about six wedges. Finely chop wedges into ribbons.  Add to onions. Add brown sugar, vinegar & caraway seeds and a dash of salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir thoroughly. Turn heat down to low. Simmer for ~25 minutes – stirring frequently. You will want a bit of liquid to release. If it remains on the dry side, cover for the last 10 minutes. On the other hand, sometimes a good deal of liquid releases and it can get a bit soupy. If that’s the case, leave the cover off.  Season with salt & pepper and taste to see if more brown sugar or vinegar is needed.

Consider serving with oven-roasted pork and potatoes. Or it’s delicious on its own.

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I just couldn’t resist picking up one of these beautiful, frothy-leafed beauties at the Farmer’s Market. Having never cooked with Savoy cabbage, I had to ask the nice lady at the stall for preparation tips. And, truth be told, I had to contact my new foodie friend Devra of Patty Pan at the Ballard Farmer’s Market* to confirm that I had, in fact, correctly identified said cabbage as Savoy.

(*You should know that Devra also writes the wonderful Quirky Gourmet blog and has penned some great cook books focused on local, seasonal vegan cooking.)

A lot of recipes toss the green leaves into soups. Which sounds divine. But considering this was my inaugural outing with Savoy, I wanted to really taste the cabbage and feel the texture on my tongue. So I decided to search for a salad recipe. And when the first one I stumbled upon mentioned that it was inspired by the “homey and hearty dishes of Louis Szathmáry—a splendidly mustached man who was the chef-owner of Chicago’s well-known Hungarian restaurant The Baker” – I knew I had found just what I was looking for. The following is loosely based on an October 2000 Gourmet magazine recipe.

Savoy Cabbage, Carrot & Apple Salad 

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons apple juice
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds, lightly crushed
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/2 head Savoy cabbage, cored, quartered and very thinly sliced
  • 2 medium carrots, very thinly julienned
  • 1 Granny Smith apple, quartered, cored, and sliced thinly
  • Salt & pepper to taste

Instructions

Whisk together juices, vinegar, sugar, oil and caraway seeds. Season with salt and pepper and toss with cabbage, carrots, and apple.

Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes to allow flavors to blend and cabbage to wilt.

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End note – for those interested in the pork filled cabbage described above – please shoot me a note and I’d be happy to share the recipe. And I’m going to work on a vegetarian version with mushrooms. You gotta love the versatility of cabbage!

Parsnips Revisited

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

Until recently, when people asked the question, “Are there any foods you don’t like?” – my mind immediately turned to… parsnips. Why the strong aversion to this unassuming vegetable? Well, it all started in my youth…

Mom and dad traveled to Europe from time to time and Grandma Evy flew out from Fargo to stay with me and my brother. These were, for the most part, enjoyable times. Visits to Jack & The Box for the rare cheeseburger and strawberry shake. Eating salty, gelatinous Salisbury Steak TV dinners on TV trays while watching The Donnie & Marie Show. But then there was the parsnip incident.

One evening Grandma cooked and served Candied Parsnips. I honestly don’t know why this part of the meal stands out so strongly in my mind. And I can’t even remember what else she served. I just know that I hated those parsnips. Absolutely refused to eat them. “How can something be so terribly sweet yet taste like dirt at the same time?” I wondered.  This petulance did not go over well with Grandma. I’m pretty sure I ate every last one of those syrupy sticks of roots. Now there’s a slight chance that I am confusing my memory of this ill-fated dish with another traumatic part of her visit – which has also scarred me for life.

young Kathryn Gilmore

As this picture shows – I was forced against my will to relinquish my pacifier. I can tell you mom and dad were not pleased about it upon their return. But Grandma was, and still is (at 104 years old!), a very strong-willed woman. And if she thought it was time to give up my pacifier, well then so be it. So whether my aversion to parsnips truly stemmed from the dish she served or has in some freakish way been commingled with this terrorizing event – I will never know. What I do know is that it is high time to get over my judgment of these poor vegetables. It’s time to stop blacklisting parsnips.

My review of recipes found an abundance of overly sweet-sounding recipes. So rather than trying to reinvent the candied variety, I thought I’d go for a sweet-savory combo. I tried a little of this and a little of that and came up with:

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Roasted Parsnips – Two Ways

peeled parsnipsIngredients

  • 1-1/2 lb. parsnips, peeled (about 4 large parsnips)
  • 3 Tbs. olive oil
  • 2 generous pinches cayenne
  • 1/4 tsp. salt; more to taste
  • 2 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 lemon – zest & juice
  • 1 Tbs. honey

Preparation

Position an oven rack on a middle rung and heat the oven to 450°F. Cut the parsnips into thicker matchsticks about 2 inches long and a 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. Place in bowl and drizzle with olive oil and toss. Pour parsnips onto two foil-lined sheets in a single layer. Sprinkle one sheet with cayenne pepper. Place both sheets in oven and roast for 15 min., stirring once or twice.

Mix lemon zest and juice with honey and set aside.

Sprinkle the sheet dusted with cayenne with the garlic, stir well. Drizzle lemon & honey mixture over the other sheet of parsnips and stir well. Continue roasting until the parsnips are well browned, about another 15 minutes. Be sure to mix after about 7 minutes – that garlic can turn quickly in such a hot oven. And the honey mixture on the other sheet can turn dark in no time. Taste for salt and serve.

roasted parsnipsI liked the contrast of the hot, garlicky parsnips against those coated with the sweet honey and lemon. Note that the honey-lemon ones may not crisp up as much as the others because they are coated in juice. But they are delicious nonetheless.

I am happy to report that I am now a parsnip convert. No longer will I shun these poor, unassuming roots. In fact, I wish I had another plateful right now…

Winter Squash

Tuesday, January 12th, 2010

For those rainy, dark and dreary winter days, sometimes the only thing that will set things right is a large, steaming bowl of butternut squash soup. The winter squash harvest is at its peak right now – making it one of the most popular players at local farmer’s markets. They come in shapes, sizes and textures galore – including butternut, acorn, spaghetti – and my personal favorite, the highly under-appreciated Delicata.

raw squash

Naturally high in fiber and a long list of vitamins and minerals, these hard-shelled beauties can seem intimidating. Even the name can be slightly repellant. (Squash – to ’subdue’ or ’suppress’. So unfair to this glorious gourd.) How do you break through that tough outer exterior? Is it worth the effort? In my humble opinion – oh, yes. Your approach could be as simple as slicing them in two, removing the seeds and roasting them to perfection, glazed with butter and brown sugar. Or chopping into smallish pieces for a healthy addition to soups, stews and casseroles.

There is a world full of varieties and preparation options – too many to name here. So instead I will tempt you with two of my favorite winter squash recipes. And because I want to encourage you to relinquish any of those lingering doubts you might have about the majestic gourd, I plan to add additional tips and recipe ideas in future blogs to carry you through until spring arrives at our doorsteps.

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half squashButternut Squash, Fennel & Apple Soup

(Adapted from my friend Caitlin’s recipe – a kitchen wizard that one. Consider doubling the recipe – this is very freezer-friendly.)

Ingredients:

  • 1 medium butternut squash – peeled, seeds and pulp removed, chopped roughly
  • 1 small fennel bulb – core removed, sliced thinly
  • 1 small onion – peeled and sliced thinly
  • 1 small apple – peeled, cored and chopped (Granny Smith is a good choice)
  • Vegetable or chicken stock – approximately one 1-quart container*
  • 2 Bay leaves (Sage is a nice alternative)
  • Fresh thyme – a few sprigs
  • Salt & pepper
  • 1 T butter or olive oil
  • 1 tsp Cayenne (optional)

*Always have additional stock on hand in case you need to thin out the soup. I’m a fan of Trader Joe’s “Savory Broth” liquid concentrate – which allows you to make a cup at a time.

Preparation:

Roast the butternut squash at 400 degrees for about 45 minutes or until it’s tender and caramelized.

In a fairly large soup pot or Dutch oven, sauté the fennel, onion and apple in butter or olive oil over medium heat until soft. Season with salt & pepper. Add the roasted squash, bay, thyme, and cayenne (if using) to the fennel mixture, stir to coat in the oil/butter.

Add enough stock to just cover the veggies, bring to a simmer and cook approximately 25 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and season with salt/pepper if needed.

Using a food mill (or food processor or blender), process the solids in batches. (But take note – if using a blender, do not fill it up to the top. Hot liquids expand! Stick to 1/2 or 2/3 cups full.) If some liquid gets into the food mill or the processor as you’re scooping it in that’s fine. Put the now smooth (not baby food smooth, you want a little texture) mixture back into the pot. Add more broth if it’s too thick, check for seasonings and warm it back up.

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squash slicesRoasted Delicata Squash

(An excellent, kid-friendly solution – fun finger food that looks like little smiles.)

Ingredients:

  • 2 medium Delicata squash
  • Olive Oil Spray
  • Course Sea Salt

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Cut squash oblong and remove seeds and pulp. Do NOT remove the peel. Cut in narrow slices (about 1/4 inch).

Cover baking pans (or cookie sheets) with tin foil and spray with olive oil spray. Place cut squash on foil-covered sheets and spray with olive oil. Bake squash for 20 minutes. Turn over and continue to bake for about 15 minutes. Squash slices should be browned and somewhat crisp on the outside. If they aren’t – place under broiler for a few minutes and watch closely until brown. Remove from oven, salt liberally and serve.

Serving options:

  • Sprinkle with finely chopped rosemary or cumin
  • Serve with a dipping sauce consisting of 1/3 cup sour cream (low fat is fine) or crème fraiche, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon horseradish and a small squeeze of honey.

Mise en Place, Everything in Place

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010

mise-en-placeFrom the French, the concept of ‘mise en place’ is now a well-respected practice in kitchens around the world – the preparation of all the necessary ingredients before settling in to the task of creating a meal. It is the washing, chopping, measuring and arranging. Not just a practice for the culinary elite, mise en place is equally useful in the home kitchen – what it requires in time, it more than makes up for in the process. Perfectly sautéed onions wait for no cook.

During the last few months I have been knee-deep in such prep work, preparing to launch my new professional venture, Foodwise Northwest – and by extension, this blog. It has been mise en place practiced on a grand scale – sometimes intimidating, most often inspiring.

Delicata-squashWhether you’re a fellow Pacific Northwest’er, or a home cook on the other side of the globe – my hope with this blog is to inspire you to step outside of your comfort zone. (Think, ‘Adieu bagged baby carrots, bonjour Delicata squash!’) To demystify the art of creating fresh, flavorful meals with local, seasonal ingredients. To share my philosophy and experiences – from farmer’s market to kitchen table. And ultimately, to create a community – to unearth new favorite recipes, secrets to success, your own ‘mise en place’ practices.

In his bestselling book, In Defense of Food, author Michael Pollan offers this sage dietary advice, ‘Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.’ It seems deceptively simple – surely there has to be more to it than that, right? Given my interest in home cooking – and its undeniable relationship with an enjoyable quality of life – it will come as little surprise that I not only agree, but have adopted Pollan’s maxim as a guide in my own efforts.  At this point, you may have reread ‘mostly plants’ with eyebrows raised. Don’t worry, I can assure you that there is still room in the grocery basket for sourdough bread and dark chocolate – it’s just that they’re nestled in there among rainbow kale, brussel sprouts and asian pears.

So welcome, fellow foodie. I hope you’ll join me in this new adventure, because I can’t wait to share it with you.

Now… À la cuisine!